Big Rocks Park re-visited

29 08 2011

Remember the post that was made a few years back about Big Rocks Park and Dinosaur Valley in Glen Rose?

Well, it seems that a Dublin local has put up quite a few boulder problems.  He admits that its no destination, but if you’re passing thru or when the temperature is 100+ degrees out and you want to be near some water, check it out.

Everything is posted over on Mountain Project, under Paluxy River Boulders.





Paradise on the Brazos OPEN!

15 07 2011

From Scott Strong on the Mountain Project Forums :

“Good news folks. POB is no longer limited access. After climbing at POB today, we spoke with the property owner, Freddy. He told us to get the word out that POB is back open for climbing. The usual rules still apply:

Climbing is $10 a day
Camping is $6 a day

There is a drop box and sign in sheet at the house. Inside the box there are waivers that must be filled out if you’ve never been out there before. Freddy lives there, he knows who goes in and out, and he keeps track of who doesn’t pay. So please, for the sake of access, please pay for your climbing and camping.

When burn bans are not in affect (and they currently are), campfires are allowed. Be respectful! This is private property and we are being allowed to use what it has to offer through the graciousness of the owner. Practice leave no trace.

It may be chossy, but it is indeed paradise. Let’s enjoy it and make sure it stays open!”





Lake Brownwood Guidebook

22 03 2011

Brought to you by Abilene Climbers, the very first published guide for the Lake Brownwood rocks.  Its a great little crag if you ever find yourself in the area, and any kind of effort to document and promote any Texas climbing is a worthwhile endeavor. Outstanding job gentlemen!

Click on the pic to go to the PDF they uploaded.  Then stop by their page and say thanks for a job well done.





Camp Eagle Climbing Weekend

8 03 2011

Camp Eagle, in the hill country, recently held a climbing event in conjunction with the USA Track and Field 50 mile national champion ship trail run they hosted this past weekend. All in all it was a great weekend, though the climber turnout was a little on the low side.  There was supposed to be a healthy sized contingent of Austin climbers headed out, but most bailed.

While I’m waiting for a few photos from the AbileneClimbers who made it out, I thought I’d post a video of Scott Chapman climbing the 5.12+ Say Yes To Jimi.  If you’re looking for spectacular filming, look elsewhere, but if you’re looking for a simple video showing the potential of what’s out at Camp Eagle, continue watching.

And here’s a nice aerial view of the property and beautiful cliff line that someone filmed from a remote control plane.





Helmet Cam in 3 Parts

27 05 2010

The following is Scott Chapman wearing a helmet cam while climbing what I think is Say No to Jimmy (5.9) into the extension project Say Yes to Jimmy (5.13+).  Part 2 is the transition from mostly vertical face thru a large roof and into tiny holds.





This Weekend

8 04 2010

Spring Fling at Quartz Mountain.  Check the forums at Wichita Mountains Climber’s Coalition for more info.

Limestoner Climbing Competition at Reimer’s Ranch in Austin.  Check the Central Texas Mountaineers for more info.

Granite or Limestone?  You decide.





Lake Brownwood Video

1 04 2010

Its almost unknown outside of the Abilene area, but near Brownwood, Texas is a small lake with some quality bouldering.  One problem in particular has been the subject of attempts for several years.  It is an tall overhanging block with small crimps and a horrible landing.

This past week, Scott Chapman of Camp Eagle and Eric Gentry of AbileneClimbers made the first and second ascents of Jack in the Box.  The following video is the second ascent.

Visit AbileneClimbers for more photos and a recap of the send.