Climbing Jargon

23 10 2008

Ah the vocabulary of climbing. Ignoring all the quasi-technical jargon about placing “pro” and other such safety related commands, climbers, like surfers, have developed our own slang over the years.

He’s crushing these days.

That was sick.

It’s so bomber.

I can deal with all of these and many more. But the next time I hear someone say “that’s so truck” I’m going to punch him in the face. It’s not “truck,” and you’re an imbecile.

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Sunday Video Roundup

19 10 2008

It’s been awhile since the last video roundup.

Check out Slashface V4, J-Tree courtesy of the new video site www.climbclips.com.  The site hopes to become a Youtube for the climbing world, with nice features like embeddable clips that other sites like MomentumVM don’t have. It’s still fairly new, but go check it out.

Vodpod videos no longer available.





New Topos Page

19 10 2008

I finally got around to adding the Texas and Oklahoma related topos I’ve found online to a new Topos page available at the top.  Yeah, you’ve probably seen some of them on other blogs, but I’m of the persuasion that information should be made available to the masses in as many places as possible.

Enjoy.





Hostility Boulders Anyone?

18 10 2008

Maybe they should have just stuck with Ham Creek Park since that’s what it is on all the maps, but I guess everyone’s gotta get some in the name game.

At any rate, a few of us will be there tomorrow, Saturday the 18th, noonish.

See you there.





WTF? Chisholm Wall/The ‘Burn

11 10 2008

Remember my earlier rant about the Chisholm Wall (aka The ‘Burn) in Cleburne? About how it’s been closed longer than today’s high schoolers have been alive? About how we should reopen it? About how nobody seems to know exactly where it is?

Apparently, youth climbing Team Texas has been holding out on us. If you visit their webpage, 6 of those kids list The ‘Burn as one of the places they’ve climbed outdoors. WTF?

The rumors of a temperamental gun-toting land owner can’t be too accurate if 13- and 14-year olds are climbing out there.





Within 1.5 hours of San Antonio

8 10 2008

I bring you the best cliff I’ve seen that is within 2 hours of a major metropolitan area in Texas (El Paso excluded).

The land on the cliff-less side of the river is open for public use. I don’t know anything about the cliff ownership. $5 to anyone who can guess the name and location.





Texas State Parks with potential

5 10 2008

The only officially sanctioned places for climbing in state parks in Texas are: Mineral Wells, Franklin Mountains, Hueco Tanks, Enchanted Rock. Texas Limestone Bouldering lists a few parks where bouldering is accepted, but not officially endorsed.

Other places with obvious potential:

Big Bend Ranch State Park – only its remoteness prevents it from becoming more popular. Too few people to really care what you’re doing. The whole border of Texas and Mexico in this region is one massive limestone cliff. 1 days drive from everywhere.

Colorado Bend State Park – TONS of beautiful limestone walls and plenty of caves too. 2 hrs from Austin, 1 hr from Killeen.

Garner State Park – a huge cliff on typical amazing Hill Country water. The rivers in this area make Reimer’s water look and feel like a lukewarm bath. 2 hours from San Antonio. 3+ from Austin.

Government Canyon – a few of my San Antonio friends said their one regret was that they didn’t stealth bolt any climbs before this became public land so that climbing would’ve been grandfathered-in. Haven’t been there myself, so I don’t really know what’s out there. Right smack dab near San Antonio.

Guadalupe River State Park – Climbing was once open here, and may or may not still be. I’m not really sure and don’t know anyone that has climbed here. Right near San Antonio.

Seminole Canyone State Park- again, beautiful limestone walls carved by the flash floods of the desert. Historical pictographs and petroglyphs, so this place would never be opened by the man. Middle of nowhere Del Rio, but if you could get the Pecos River Cliffs to re-open, they’re just right down the road.

What are the parks I’m missing?

UPDATE:

Pedernales Falls – I’m an idiot for forgetting about this one.  Already plenty of bouldering goes on.  I guess this could have been covered in the statement above about the TLB guide, but whatever.

Lost Maples – more hill country limestone.