Bad Beta

3 07 2008

This past weekend, another local and I ventured out to Dinosaur Valley State Park and Big Rocks Park in Glen Rose to search for potential climbing. Despite some very promising photos, the trip was mostly a bust. While there are a few boulders that offer some problems, there is nothing worth traveling any distance for. If you’re in the area and you have a pair of shoes, sure knock yourself out, but otherwise look for your climbing fix elsewhere.

The only worthwhile stuff we found was at Dinosaur Valley, found on or around the Blue Trail. Most of it was surrounded by crumbly choss.

Dinosaur Valley Problem adjacent to Blue Trail

This boulder, which was featured in our last post about Glen Rose, ended up being very tall though this picture doesn’t show it. It has a couple possible routes, all of which would entail some cleaning and would ultimately end up very difficult. The tip of the boulder is very far off the ground, but with a very chossy lower section.

All of this originated because we’re aware that the Chisholm Wall is somewhere between Cleburne and Glen Rose. So, if any of you jerks know the directions to the infamous Chisholm Wall, you should confess so we can use our network of political connections/thuggery to open it back up. After twenty years of being closed, its an idea worth exploring.

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6 responses

6 08 2008
Richard Crawford

The Chisolm Wall or The Burn is outside of Rio Vista on 174 and is closed as per land owners wishes. The land owner leases the land to hunters and has a foreman tht patrols the land to keep it that way. Many years ago me and some friends ventured up there and climbed. It still had bolts that looked good at the time and the routes were mostly 5.12 and up. Great place but closed. I recently talked to a man that is in contact with the land owner and he said that he had asked him if he could go up there just to take some pictures. He was told that if he went up there and was caught that the law would be called and charges would be pressed. I had this conversation recently roughly June of ’08. Good luck trying to sway the land owner. I would love to climb there again as I live about 20 miles from it.

13 11 2008
El jefe

I would give you directions, and great beta to all of the amazing routes at the burn, but I can’t, and the reason is simple, It has never being open to the public, it is a private land, and if you get cought you are gonna get shot, there is a sign there that says” traspasers will be shot, survivors will be shot again “, and that is why we try to keep the burn in the DL. SORRY!!!

4 03 2009
Eric

I agree with El Jefe; AMAZING Area. I have been climbing there for 10 years+ plus. I have met the infamous General Zargoff; and the family. This is a closed spot and they do enforce it with guns on foot, 4 wheeler, and truck. (i do love Texas!) they can be sneaky so please don’t attempt to play with them.

It would be one of the best areas in Texas; but I would also be very saddened to see it turn into a gym.

The routes range from 5.12+ and up. Very hard. Much harder than the average climber can handle. Alot of old routes; bolts can be bad. Again this is an old school and elite training / playground.

If you are lucky enough to have known Jack Meliski (RIP), or his old school crew; then you know where it’s at.

I will say there is plenty of potential in an area a few miles south west of Fishermans cove. I found it many years ago with friends after being chased (by gun) off the Burn. You will know if you find the Fisher-Mans-cove spot, because there is a dirt road alongside the cliff. (running along / against the edge of the road.) In the middle of nothing and nowhere.

Beware – you cannot park on the road (no room) and if your car is found at the beginning or end you will be greeted in a good old fasion Texas style there as well. Not sure who owns it; but they don’t want people there for any reason! again- Beware

Head on down to Mexico and have some fun and forget about these parts of Tejas. I’m not sure about the developments over the last ten years in the possium kingdom area, but back in the day we drilled by boat:)

EP

25 01 2011
Clayton

While I appreciate the enthusiasm of this website, there is no reason to post pic or info about closed climbing on private land. Believe it or not these gun toting rednecks have the interweb. This is why we have to have secrets in this state.

Your best bet, sadly, is to find climbing and keep it to yourself. If you want to climb at the best areas in this state you simply have to find them, climb as many of the climbs as you can before you get shot or arrested, rinse and repeat.

27 01 2011
climbdfw

Which is why we’ve never posted photos/directions to The Burn….

The photos above are in on public land in a state park.

29 08 2011
Big Rocks Park re-visited « ClimbDFW

[…] the post that was made a few years back about Big Rocks Park and Dinosaur Valley in Glen […]

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